Formation of the Skin (Tvak)
Ayurvedic embryology describes the formation of skin as a delicate process, comparing it to cream or 'malai' forming on milk. Ayurvedic texts refer to a nuanced layering process that culminates in the sixth month of intrauterine life and leads to the formation of seven distinct layers, each with protective and functional roles.
The skin is said to carry the quality of sneha-sara (oiliness), nourished by Rasa dhatu (plasma). This underscores why and how external applications such as oils and herbal lepas or natural pastes work in conjunction with internal nutrition to ensure optimum skin health.
Balanced dhatus (body tissues): The Root of Skin Vitality
One of the key principles of Ayurvedic skin care is to ensure the balance of dhatus - the seven fundamental tissues of the body that support structure, nourishment, and vitality. The Rasa and Rakta dhatus are key factors determining skin health.
Rasa Dhatu (plasma): Skin health relies heavily on Rasa Dhatu, the nutrient fluid formed from properly digested food. If digestion (agni) is weak, Rasa becomes impure, leading to toxin (ama) accumulation that manifests as dullness, dryness, or skin eruptions. Ayurvedic lore says:
Rakta Dhatu (blood): Blood defines the colour and vitality of skin; impurities in blood may lead to redness, acne, rashes, and spots.
How to Make Rasa & Rakta Robust?
- Eat warm, fresh-cooked meals; avoid leftovers or heavy processed foods.
- Use ghee (in moderation) instead of oil; use mild spices in cooking; eat seasonal veggies and fruits.
- Ensure you get good quality sleep – helps collagen synthesis.
- Daily physical exercise and breath-regulating exercises are a must as they aid in micro-circulation and micro-nutrient delivery.
Another pillar of Ayurvedic skin care is matching the care to one's particular prakriti (body constitution) and dosha (bio energy) alignment. Ayurveda stresses that skincare must be personalised to one's doshic framework. Below is the Ayurvedic skin care regimen recommended based on the three doshas:
Vata Skin
(Thin, dry, cool to the touch, prone to fine lines and uneven tone.)
Diet: Opt for warm, moist, slightly oily foods with sweet, sour, and salty tastes.
- Include: Rice, oats, quinoa, ghee, stews, stewed apples, pears, mango, root vegetables, and spices such as ginger, cinnamon, nutmeg, clove.
- Avoid: Raw or cold salads, carbonated drinks, irregular meals, and fasting.
External Care:
- Abhyanga (self-massage): Sesame, avocado, or olive oil for the body; for the face, apply Kumkumadi Oil (3-4 drops at night).
- Lepa (application of herbal paste for healing or cosmetic purposes):
Shatadhauta ghrita (washed cow milk ghee) may be used as a lepa. - Nasya (administration of herbal oils, juices, or powders through the nose to cleanse and heal the head region):
Administer 2–4 drops of sesame oil in each nostril morning and evening to reduce dryness.
(Soft, sensitive, warm, and prone to redness, acne, tanning, and pigmentation.)
Diet: Choose cooling foods with sweet, bitter, and astringent tastes.
- Include: Barley, rice, cooked oats, leafy greens, pomegranate, grapes, melons, pears, and coconut in your daily diet.
- Avoid: Excess chillies, alcohol, and fried foods.
External Care:
- Abhyanga (self-massage): Coconut oil for the body; for the face, use Kumkumadi Taila
- Lepa (application of herbal paste for healing or cosmetic purposes): Sandalwood with rose water for heat.
- Nasya (administration of herbal oils through the nose to cleanse and heal the head region):
Anu Taila or cow ghee may be used for this.
(Thick, oily, pale, with larger pores and a tendency toward dullness or cystic acne.)
Diet: Choose light, warm, pungent, bitter, and astringent foods.
- Include: Millets, barley, buckwheat, ginger, and garlic.
- Avoid: Excessive sweets, dairy, and fried foods.
External Care:
- Abhyanga (self-massage): Dhanvantaram Taila or Mahanarayan oil for stimulation.
- Lepa (application of herbal paste for healing or skin enhancing):
Sandalwood powder blends to balance excess oil secretion. - Nasya (administration of herbal oils through the nose to cleanse and heal the head region):
Use sesame oil or Anu Taila for this purpose. - Udvartana (upward massage for detox, fat reduction, and skin rejuvenation): Kolakulathadi Churna or Kottamchukkadi Churna for body massage; and liquorice with sandalwood for the face.
- Udgharshana: Ruksha (dry) massage with herbal powders without oil, 2–4 times weekly, to decongest.
If you feel you have a mix of conditions, you can consult an Ayurvedic practitioner. (You may also take the dosha test on the Maharishi Ayurveda website.)
Unlike modern skincare that focuses primarily on symptoms, Ayurveda addresses the root issue, be it poor digestion, lifestyle imbalance or environmental stress.
Dinacharya (daily routine)
- Wake in Brahma Muhūrta (pre-sunrise): Stabilises the circadian rhythm (the 24-hour internal clock), and cortisol ('stress' hormone).
- Jivhā Nirlekhana (tongue scraping): Reduces oral ama (toxins) that can hamper agni (digestive fire).
- Uṣṇa Jalapana (sipping warm water): Sip warm water with a slice of ginger for a good morning cleanse.
- Abhyanga (self-massage, 30-40 min before bath with oil):
- For Vata dosha:
Sesame oil for body massage - For Pitta dosha:
Coconut oil for body massage - For Kapha dosha:
Warm Dhanvantaram Taila - good for stimulation – for body massage - Snān (bath) with natural cleansers:
For body wash: Chickpea flour, green gram (mung) flour, or ubtan with chickpea or oats flour; use herbal soaps from reputed companies. - For face cleansing: Mukhalepa (1-3 times in a week). Rotate packs for specific requirements (see recipes below)
- Midday main meal: According to Ayurveda - agni ( digestive fire ) is at its peak at this point of time, so one should have the heaviest meal for lunch.
- Evening wind-down: light dinner, screen-down by 9 pm, sleep around 10 pm to support collagen build-up.
- Grīṣma (summer): have more cooling foods such as coconut water, gulkand, cucumbers, sandalwood/rose-based hydrants; avoid peak sun – helps to balance and calm Vata dosha.
- Varṣā (monsoon): support agni (digestive fire) by eating light, warm meals; add honey to your meals to maintain balance in the body; incorporate neem-turmeric into your seasonal routine to deter fungal issues.
- Hemanta/Śiśira (winter): add richer fats such as ghee and sesame into your seasonal routine. To keep one warm, massages with warm oil, such as sesame oil, are recommended.
- Vasanta (spring): Since Kapha gets aggravated in this season, one should opt for light food with bitter, pungent and astringent tastes. Ginger is good to Kapha in balance. This is the best time to observe Panchakarma (detoxification procedure).
Add bitter greens and millets to your diet, and dry scrubs (udvartana) made of chickpea flour with a little turmeric, in your hygiene routine.
For Oily / Congested Skin
- Masoor Dal Paste – Soak red lentils with little milk grind to a paste - helps absorb excess oil and nourishes.
- Multani Mitti + Sandalwood + Rose Water – A classic clay mask to regulate sebum - great for smooth skin.
- Fresh Rice Paste – Mild mattifying pack that refreshes without stripping.
- Lemon Juice Dab – Astringent and clarifying (always patch test; avoid broken skin).
- Orange Peel + Curd/Tomato or Cucumber Juice – Cooling, mildly exfoliating and brightening.
- Curd + Multani Mitti – A hydrating mask, enriched with nourishing oil.
- Fenugreek (ground methi) + Besan (chickpea flour) + Coconut Oil – A protein-rich, creamy blend that restores softness.
- Fresh Milk Application – Acts as instant hydration and makes skin supple. Also, an excellent natural cleanser.
- Neem Leaves + Fresh Butter (made from curd) – Helps calm the skin, soothes mild irritation and moisturizes skin.
- Liquorice + Turmeric + Rose Water – Moisturises and brightens dull skin.
- Aloe Vera Gel – Provides cooling, vitamin-rich hydration and glow.
- Ashwagandha Powder + Ghee + Warm Milk – Apply this paste at night for healing and deep nourishment.
- Patch Test: Always test a small area first to rule out sensitivity. (Wait for 24 hours to check for adverse effect)
- Timing: Keep masks on for 8–12 minutes only (especially for sensitive skin).
- Rinse & Seal: Use lukewarm water to wash off. Follow with 2–3 drops of herbal face oil to lock in moisture.
Ayurvedic skincare isn't about instant results it's a lifelong practice of balance and harmony. By aligning your diet, lifestyle, and dosha-based care, Ayurveda nurtures skin that's naturally radiant, strong, and deeply nourished.
Begin with simple rituals: sip golden turmeric milk, apply a herbal lepam weekly, or gently massage your face with Kumkumadi oil before bed. With steady practice, Ayurveda reveals a timeless glow that comes from within and endures for life.
MEDINDIA