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The Real 'male Models' With Masculine Energy and Porn Star Physiques are Back !
As the world tut-tutted over the hazards of throwing ultra-skinny female models on catwalks over the last months, few noticed the men too had shrunk.
After decades of using male models with virile good looks and porn star physiques to parade their clothes, fashion houses in the mid-1990s began downsizing men, going for younger, thinner and lankier models in a trend that last year wound up being just simply androgynous.
But specialists say a page is being turned, and the real men are back.
"Our man this season looks like a young Texan farmer," said Ungaro assistant designer Damien Amsallem. "He has muscles, though he isn't big. And even if he's only 20, he has a real physique and looks like a man."
Yet just a few months ago, after the season's fashion shows in New York, Paris and Milan, The New York Times lamented that: "The man of the moment is an urchin, a wraith or an underfed runt."
Fashion-watchers, it added, had been no less than "flabbergasted at the sheer quantity of guys who looked chicken-chested, hollow-cheeked and undernourished."
Historians and designers say big-shouldered beefcake gym-addicted types were shovelled off catwalks in the 90s by the likes of Yamamoto, who went for street-boys as models, or Belgian avant-garde designer Raf Simons, who put suits with extravagantly small shoulders on sapling-thin boys who were not agency models.
Then came Hedi Slimane, who from 1999 to 2006 revolutionised menswear at Dior with cigarette-slim pants and narrow suits. He is credited with the worldwide crush for the skinny, boyish, often sexually-ambiguous, silhouette.
After decades of using male models with virile good looks and porn star physiques to parade their clothes, fashion houses in the mid-1990s began downsizing men, going for younger, thinner and lankier models in a trend that last year wound up being just simply androgynous.
But specialists say a page is being turned, and the real men are back.
"Our man this season looks like a young Texan farmer," said Ungaro assistant designer Damien Amsallem. "He has muscles, though he isn't big. And even if he's only 20, he has a real physique and looks like a man."
Yet just a few months ago, after the season's fashion shows in New York, Paris and Milan, The New York Times lamented that: "The man of the moment is an urchin, a wraith or an underfed runt."
Fashion-watchers, it added, had been no less than "flabbergasted at the sheer quantity of guys who looked chicken-chested, hollow-cheeked and undernourished."
Historians and designers say big-shouldered beefcake gym-addicted types were shovelled off catwalks in the 90s by the likes of Yamamoto, who went for street-boys as models, or Belgian avant-garde designer Raf Simons, who put suits with extravagantly small shoulders on sapling-thin boys who were not agency models.
Then came Hedi Slimane, who from 1999 to 2006 revolutionised menswear at Dior with cigarette-slim pants and narrow suits. He is credited with the worldwide crush for the skinny, boyish, often sexually-ambiguous, silhouette.
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