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Spanish Star Chef Hangs His Apron
Spain's Ferran Adria, the 47-year-old creator of much talked-about and often-criticised "molecular gastronomy", became Tuesday the latest top cook to buckle under the pressure.
His El Bulli, crowned the world's best for four years running by Britain's Restaurant Magazine, is to be temporarily closed in 2012 and 2013 due to fatigue as well as Adria's need for time to work on new recipes.
Adria, 47, who appeared tired and nervous, said in Madrid that he found working 15 hours a day "difficult".
"It's impossible with the current format of El Bulli to continue to create," he said. "It's like telling (British fashion designer) John Galliano to go work in a factory."
His decision to chuck in his apron and re-think the future came as no surprise to the cook who currently boasts more stars awarded by France's coveted Michelin guide than any other chef.
"He repeatedly told me he'd stop work early in life," Joel Robuchon told AFP of Adria in a telephone interview. "He'd say 'You were right! I promise you I'll stop'".
Robuchon dropped a gastronomic bombshell more than a decade ago by slamming the door on his three-star eatery when at the pinnacle of his success and having just been dubbed the century's best chef by the Gault-Millau food guide.
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