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Olympics Sees Haute Cuisine in Home of Peking Duck
Opening at intervals over the past two years, haute cuisine western restaurants are often struggling to fill their dining rooms.
"We are far from getting a full house and it is the same for the others," said Guillaume Galliot, the 27-year-old chef at the French restaurant Jaan.
"This is not Shanghai or Singapore. In Beijing, the people are not ready yet," said Galliot, who imports all his produce down to the rare pink garlic from Lautrec in the southwest of France.
He says that the Olympics supplied the impetus for many top-end western restaurants to come to Beijing.
But once the Games are over that will evaporate, and it will take a couple more years before western haute cuisine begins to take off again.
"The money is here. But many Beijingers prefer a Chinese restaurant, even an expensive one, rather than to pay a thousand yuan (145 dollars) for a French meal," he said.
At Le Pre Lenotre, another French newcomer to Beijing, chef Frederic Meynard is more optimistic. In midweek recently his dining room was two-thirds full, mostly with Chinese.
"We have got a clientele of regulars. There is a lot of potential in Beijing, so there is room," for plenty of high-class stablishments, said Meynard, from Perigord, as he prepared a 'foie gras' with preserved lemon, rhubarb, shitake mushrooms and froth of lemongrass.
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