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Meet Eliran Shrefler at Jerusalem's Good Old Restaurant
Shrefler is just 28, but he has little time for the stylish eateries and pricey boutiques that now dot the bustling market, a venerable institution steeped in the past century's dramatic history of the Holy City.
"Do those who open restaurants or boutiques think they invented the market, as if there was no one here before them?"
His tiny family-run restaurant has resisted change since his father Azura, after whom it is named, founded it in the 1960s, and it continues to do brisk business with its hearty Mediterranean food.
In the wee hours of the morning, as merchants arrange their displays of fruit, vegetables, fish, meat or assorted wares, Shrefler sets his saucepans on primus stoves, where they will simmer for hours.
By 11 am, Azura is teeming with patrons who dig into the bubbly soups and stews, served generously by Eliran's brother, Chico.
Once the exclusive domain of stall-holders and neighbourhood locals, the unpretentious eatery attracts increasing numbers among the younger, wealthier and hipper crowds seen in the market these days.
Signs of the changing times can be seen throughout the maze of narrow streets that make up Mahne Yehuda, which is known to locals simply as the "Shuk" -- Hebrew for market.
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